The Anthropology of Food

Dave Wann : Thursday January 12, 11:15AM

Americans undervalue organic food both on the table and on the farm, for similar reasons.

As a culture, we don’t yet recognize the difference in quality between organic and conventional food; between conventional and organic growing. For example, we don’t recognize collectively that it’s more accurate to define the word “organic” by what it is, rather than what it isn’t. True, certified organic means that toxic chemicals and fossil fuel-based fertilizers are not used, but the only way farmers can make that kind of agriculture work is by operating their farms as living systems: building the soil with organic, once-living material – which provides fertility, water retention, disease resistance, and good drainage all at the same time.

Rotation of crops prevents disease and maintains fertility; using cover crops like alfalfa pulls free nitrogen right out of the air; recycling “wastes” like manure, crop residues, and by-products of regional industries, such as coffee roasters or fruit canneries makes full use of existing resources. This information-rich way of farming provides habitat for wildlife (which reciprocate with natural pest control); conserves water and helps preserve family farms in rural and metro-edge communities.

The fact that that average levels of nearly a dozen nutrients are 25 percent higher in organic produce translates to greater calmness, endurance, mobility, allergy-resistance, sharper senses, and a better sex life in the daily lives of consumers – a higher quality of life, not just prevention of heart disease or cancer. Those who associate organic food with tightwads or hippies may not be aware that the White House chef has routinely served organic food to the Clintons, the Bushes, and now the Obamas. In fact, the world’s finest chefs prefer organic produce because its taste is superior. The use of powdered fertilizers causes crops to take up more water, diluting the taste. In addition, conventional produce has fewer of the enzymes and minerals that enhance flavor.

Since only two percent of the country’s population now lives on a farm, we don’t think of ourselves as having a direct role in farming, yet we each eat an average of a ton of food every year. Farms and ranches still cover more than half our land, and consume three-fourths of our water and 70% percent of our antibiotics. “If you eat, drink, or pay taxes; or care about the economy, the environment, or our global reputation, what happens on farms is a central if unseen part of your life,” says Michael Pollan. If this is so, what kind of farm do you want?

Benefits of Organic Growing and Eating –

    • Protects the health of children. University of Washington researchers analyzed urine samples of 110 preschoolers, only one of whom had no measurable level of pesticides. That one child’s parents ate exclusively organic food and didn’t use pesticides in their home or lawn. EPA-documented effects in children of exposure to certain pesticides include poorer growth and impact on neurodevelopment.
    • Protects the Health and Productivity of Farmers. A recent Mayo Clinic study of about 1,200 Iowa farmers revealed those older than 70 had twice the risk of developing prostate cancer of men the same age who were not farmers. Researchers concluded the difference was exposure to toxic chemicals.
    • Prevents Soil Erosion. The Soil Conservation Service estimates more than 3 billion tons of topsoil are eroded from United States croplands each year, eroding seven times faster than nature creates soil. In organic farming, cover crops, terracing, and high organic content prevent erosion.
    • Conserves Energy used on farms. Organic farming produces the same yields of corn and soybeans as does conventional farming, but uses 30 percent less energy, a 22-year farming trial study concludes.
    • Prevents Exposure to Pesticides in the home. Pesticides are poisons designed to kill living organisms. In addition to cancer, pesticides are implicated in birth defects, nerve damage, and genetic mutations. Why bring these chemicals into our homes from our farms and gardens?
    • Promotes Biodiversity on and around farms. Organic farming preserves natural habitat in hedgerows, crop diversity, ponds, and forests, while conventional farming typically uses methods (mono-cropping and pesticides) that reduce biodiversity. Beneficial insects such as bees flourish on organic farms, but often suffer from “colony collapse” on conventional farms.
    • Supports an Emerging Industry with a smaller Footprint. Organic methods of growing crops generate fewer greenhouse emissions, largely because energy-intensive fertilizers and pesticides are not used.
    • Better Flavor, More Healthy Nutrients per pound. Many studies give strong evidence that produce grown organically promotes non-aggressive behavior in schools and prisons and increases performance on academic exams – largely because of increased nutrient density.

“I get it,” you say. “Organic is healthier and better for the environment, but that doesn’t change the fact that it’s more expensive.”

However, in real terms, organic is less expensive because it delivers more nutrition. It uses fewer resources to produce similar, sometimes superior yields, and is more resilient – less dependent on radical changes, for example in the volatility of oil prices or the frequency of rain. Organic methods perform much better in droughts, because rich soil holds water far more effectively. As oil supplies continue to dwindle, the price of organic produce will begin to seem like a bargain.

What if you had a way of prioritizing which organic products to buy? It seems logical to choose organic for the foods you eat the most, as well as for the produce that is sprayed most heavily. Based on extensive analysis of federal pesticide test results, the Environmental Working Group recommends opting for organic with these foods:

 THE DIRTY DOZEN (MOST HEAVILY SPRAYED)

 

Why not eat what our bodies are designed to eat? Humans haven’t evolved fast enough to deal with processed, pre-cooked scrambled eggs and Hot Pockets. (Hopefully our genes won’t stray to accommodate these short-term fads). Though our ancestors hunted and ate far leaner animals than we do — species closer to modern deer and elk than the typical cow – it’s fashionable these days for meat to be fatty and tender, as if the goal of eating was heart disease.

Three Key Actions:

• Spend more of your budget on food and less on gas or gadgets.

• When considering organic brands, think about more than the price. Consider the health of your kids, the health of the world’s wildlife and the quality of the soil we all rely on.

• Encourage community foundations, chambers of commerce and local governments to train new organic farmers to meet the rising demand.

 

David Wann is a writer, filmmaker, and speaker on sustainable strategies and lifestyles. His latest book, The New Normal, proposes 33 interventions in dysfunctional mega-systems. To find out more, visit www.davewann.com

 

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